{"id":9362,"date":"2017-01-19T10:00:56","date_gmt":"2017-01-19T08:00:56","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/blog.erm.ee\/?p=9362"},"modified":"2017-01-20T11:00:18","modified_gmt":"2017-01-20T09:00:18","slug":"pussusogol-perse-paale-ja-gulanijele","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.erm.ee\/?p=9362","title":{"rendered":"Pussus\u00f5g\u00f5l perse p\u00e4\u00e4le ja gul\u00e4nijele!"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Tiit Sibul, n\u00e4ituste korraldaja<\/em><\/p>\n

1912. aasta vanavara kogumisretkel Setomaale pani Edgar Eisenschmidt oma p\u00e4evikusse kirja k\u00f5ige muu hulgas ka m\u00f5ned t\u00e4helepanuv\u00e4\u00e4rsed read naiste vanema r\u00f5ivastuse kohta. Olohkuva k\u00fclas k\u00f5neles perenaine Issaki Palaga (\u041f\u0435\u043b\u0430\u0433\u0438\u044f \u0418\u0441\u0430\u0430\u043a\u043e\u0432\u0430) talle j\u00e4rgmist: \u201eWanast k\u00f6edeti k\u00f5rik \u00fcmbre perse ja s\u00f5s mindi gul\u00e4nije p\u00e4\u00e4le. J\u00f5hwine s\u00f5gel k\u00f6ideti perse p\u00e4\u00e4le pussu kinnipidamise jaoks \u2013 pussus\u00f5gel wassa laiune n\u00e4la nulgaline. [—] Laja w\u00fc\u00f6ga m\u00e4hiti kinni nagu tsuhknal um. Palaga ise ei ole mitte n\u00f5nda kandnud. Tema ema on n\u00f5nda riideid kandnud. Sukmani, kitasniku, r\u00fc\u00fcdi midagi ei olnud. K\u00f5rik pandi otse hamme \u00fcmber.\u201c.<\/p>\n

Paistab, et Issaki Palaga jutustab\u00a0 siin Eisenschmidtile v\u00e4ga arhailistest r\u00f5ivaesemetest \u2013 vaipseelikust (k\u00f5rik<\/em>) ning tagap\u00f5llest (pussus\u00f5g\u00f5l<\/em>). V\u00f5iks eeldada, et teated nende kandmise kohta oleksid vahendatud kas arheoloogia kaudu\u00a0v\u00f5i oleksid oma laadilt oletuslikud, aga siinkohal on meil tegemist vahetu teadaandega v\u00f5i lausa isiklike m\u00e4lestustega.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>\u201ePoissa kapuda\u2019\u201c. Sukad, meeste. Valmistatud Issaki Palaga poolt. Eseme vanus 20 a. 1912. a. Muuseumile m\u00fc\u00fcnud Issaki Palaga, Pankjavitsa v., Olohkuva k. Hind 60 kopikat. Koguja: Eisenschmidt, Edgar. ERM 6493.<\/em><\/p>\n

Et kirjapandu t\u00e4psemini ajalisse raami paigutada ning ka Setomaa kontekstis lokaliseerida, selleks tasub heita pilk Palaga eluk\u00e4igule.<\/p>\n

Kirikumeetrika andmetest n\u00e4htub, et 1912. aastal on Issaki Palaga t\u00e4pselt 60-aastane. Ta oli tulnud Olohkuva k\u00fclla mehele juba 15-aastasena. S\u00fcndinud oli ta linnulennult umbes k\u00fcmmekond kilomeetrit eemal asuvas Pokolduva k\u00fclas. Tema ema, Jevdokia Afanassi t\u00fctar, kes \u201eon n\u00f5nda riideid kandnud\u201c, oligi p\u00e4rit Pokolduvast ning abiellus 17 aasta vanuselt (aastal 1836) oma k\u00fcla poisi Isaakiga.<\/p>\n

Niisiis v\u00f5ime me Palaga poolt lausutu p\u00f5hjal oletada, et 19. sajandi keskel v\u00f5isid \u00a0Setomaa m\u00f5nes paigas (k\u00e4esoleval juhul Pokolduvas) olla k\u00f5rik (seelikuna) ning pussus\u00f5g\u00f5l<\/em> veel tarvitusel v\u00f5i alles hiljuti kasutusest \u00e4ra j\u00e4\u00e4nud. V\u00e4hemasti m\u00e4letatakse sel ajal neid r\u00f5ivaesemeid v\u00e4ga h\u00e4sti, sest m\u00e4lestus nendest pole kustunud ka pool sajandit hiljem \u2013 1912. aastal. Isegi kui see fakt nende esemete kandmisest 19. sajandil tundub raskesti usutav v\u00f5i kahtlane, on juba ainu\u00fcksi suuline teadaanne\u00a0sedav\u00f5rd arhailiste r\u00f5ivaesemete kohta t\u00e4helepanuv\u00e4\u00e4rne.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Setu naine umbes 1850. aastast. Kunstnik Aarne M\u00f5ttus akvarell-kavandeid\u00a0“Eesti Rahvariiete Albumi” jaoks.\u00a0Koostatud 1926\/27. aastal. ERM EJ 58:19.<\/em><\/p>\n

Setode rahvar\u00f5ivaloo ja selle uurimise alguses seisavad tavaliselt naiste pikkade k\u00e4istega hame, nn valevarrukatega r\u00fc\u00fcd ja puusar\u00e4tt. Palaga kirjeldatud k\u00f5riku kandmise viis ja pussus\u00f5g\u00f5l<\/em> ulatuvad selgelt palju varasemasse aega.<\/p>\n

Kuigi Eesti Rahva Muuseumis on hoiul ka m\u00f5ned k\u00f5rikud Setomaalt, on korje kirjelduste j\u00e4rgi nende esemete puhul tegemist pulmatekstiilidega, mida kasutati umbes sedasi: \u201eKui peigmees tuli pruudile j\u00e4rele, laotas pruudi ema trepi ette hoovi peale k\u00f5riku (k\u00f5rig<\/em>), mille iga nurga peale ja keskele peigmees pidi panema raha. Peigmees peatus enne sisseminekut k\u00f5riku peal ja kummardus jalgu pruudi vanematele.\u201c (Ilmari Manninen, Eesti rahvariiete ajalugu<\/em>, 1927, lk 222).<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>K\u00f5rik. Petseri. Dr. Ilmari Mannineni korjandus Setumaal 1924. a. jaanuaris.\u00a0ERM A 295:31<\/em><\/p>\n

Kui n\u00fc\u00fcd pidada silmas v\u00f5imalust, et k\u00f5riku n\u00e4ol v\u00f5ib tegemist olla seelikuga, naissugu t\u00e4histava v\u00f5i s\u00fcmboliseeriva r\u00f5ivaesemega, siis paistab see konkreetne pulmarituaal muutuvat veelgi t\u00e4henduslikumaks.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>“K\u00f5rik”. Valmistatud arvatavasti Lobodka v. Popovitsa k. Eseme vanus 100 a. Muuseumile m\u00fc\u00fcnud Palaga Mihhailovna, Lobodka v., Usinitsa k. Hind 60 kop. Jaan Vahtra korjandus Lobodka vallast (Setumaal) 1913. a. K\u00f5rik, s\u00f5ba. ERM 10878.<\/em><\/p>\n

V\u00f5imalus, et pulmas kasutatav k\u00f5rik ongi funktsioneerinud seelikuna (mitte need pole kaks erinevat tekstiili) on t\u00e4iesti olemas. Kui me vaatame n\u00e4iteks ERMis s\u00e4ilitatavaid Halliste s\u00f5basid (ERM 1790 ja ERM 1797)<\/em>, mis on (vaip)seelikud, siis v\u00f5ib t\u00f5deda, et v\u00e4hemalt eseme m\u00f5\u00f5dud lubavad Setomaalt kogutud k\u00f5rikuid (90 X 262 cm ja 90 X 210 cm) kanda sarnasel viisil, nagu on kantud Halliste s\u00f5basid (88 X 246 cm ja 97 X 227 cm).<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>S\u00f5ba, vaipseelik. Halliste. Ligikaudu 1800 a. rahvariided. Kogutud 1911. Koguja: Matto, Gustav. ERM 1790.<\/em><\/p>\n

Juba eespoolgi tsiteeritud \u201eEesti rahvariiete ajaloos\u201c \u00fctleb Ilmari Manninen otse: \u201eTagakantavaid p\u00f5llesid eesti rahvariie ei tunne\u201c (lk 315). Kuigi ERMis ei leidu t\u00f5epoolest \u00fchtegi kohalikku p\u00e4ritolu tagap\u00f5lle, on veenvaid t\u00f5endeid, et millalgi on selle r\u00f5ivaeseme levikuala siia ometi (v\u00e4hemalt L\u00f5una- ja Kagu-Eestisse) ulatunud.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Virunuka (V\u00f5rumaa, Varstu vald) kaevamistelt (1957-64, Silvia Laul) leitud tagap\u00f5lle j\u00e4\u00e4nused ja rekonstruktsioon. Valmistas Jaana Ratas. Foto: Jaana Ratas.<\/em><\/p>\n

K\u00fcll on ERMi eseme- ja joonistekogus arvukalt ersadele niiv\u00f5rd eriomaseks peetavaid selle riideeseme eksemplare.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Tagap\u00f5ll. Omanik Marfa Bla\u017enova. Tehtud umbes 1930.a. Materjal: kanep, villane l\u00f5ng, p\u00e4rlid, litrid, n\u00f6\u00f6bid, puuvillane riie. Kuib\u00f5\u0161evi oblast, Vana-\u0160entala raj ja k\u00fcla. Joonistas Karin Kalman. 1985.a. ERM EJ 562:15.<\/em><\/p>\n

Ersa tagap\u00f5lled koosnevad kahest osast: \u00fclemisest, tikandite, helmeste, n\u00f6\u00f6pide, litrite ja\/v\u00f5i tuttidega ilustatud ristk\u00fclikukujulisest riidet\u00fckist ning alumisest, riidet\u00fcki allservast rippuvast narmaskorrast.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Tagap\u00f5ll. Voldemar Rosenstrauch’il saadud Ufa (p\u00e4ritud Pensa) kubermangust 1914. a. Muuseumile \u00fcle antud 1915.a. ERM B 2:32.<\/em><\/p>\n

Kui Palga r\u00e4\u00e4gib vaksalaiusest (umbes 20sentimeetrisest) neljakandilisest riidet\u00fckist, kas see on siis midagi ligil\u00e4hedast ersa tagap\u00f5lle \u00fclemisele osale, mis on samuti enamasti paark\u00fcmmend sentimeetrit lai? V\u00f5i viitavad s\u00f5nad j\u00f5hwine<\/em> ja s\u00f5g\u00f5l<\/em> justkui h\u00f5redale ja \u00f5hulisele ehk siis narmastele ning pigem millelegi ersade p\u00f5lle alumise osaga sarnasele? Siinkohal v\u00f5ib paraku ainult oletusi teha.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Tagap\u00f5ll. Omanik Marfa Bla\u017enova. Tehtud umbes 1930.a. Materjal: villane riie, l\u00f5ng, n\u00f6\u00f6bid, litrid, p\u00e4rlid. Kuib\u00f5\u0161evi oblast, \u0160entala raj, Bagana k\u00fcla. Joonistas Mare Hunt. 1985.a. ERM EJ 562:7.<\/em><\/p>\n

Esmapilgul tundub justkui m\u00f5istlik arvata, et Palaga mainitud pussus\u00f5g\u00f5l<\/em> on tagap\u00f5lle pejoratiivne nimetus, mis tekkis v\u00f5i anti tagantj\u00e4rele, kui riideese ise oli hakanud juba kasutusest \u00e4ra j\u00e4\u00e4ma ning oli iganenud v\u00f5i n-\u00f6 moest v\u00e4ljas. Kuigi tagap\u00f5llel v\u00f5ib t\u00e4iesti vabalt olla seos naiste h\u00fcgieeniga, on raske uskuda, et r\u00f5ivaese just seda praktilist eesm\u00e4rki t\u00e4itis, nagu Palaga on kirjeldanud. Ilmselt on see nimetus ise vastava interpretatsiooni peale surunud.<\/p>\n

Tegelikult paistabki n\u00f5nda olevat, et pussul<\/em> pole pussuga mingit pistmist. Lembit Vaba, kes on uurinud l\u00e4ti laens\u00f5nu eesti murdekeeles, arvab, et pussu<\/em>– s\u00f5nat\u00fcve taandumist l\u00f5unaeesti murretes on just \u201ekiirendanud h\u00e4iriv homon\u00fc\u00fcmia peeretamist m\u00e4rkiva pussu<\/em>-perega\u201c (L\u00e4ti laens\u00f5nu eesti murdekeeles III. \u2013 Emakeele Seltsi Aastaraamat<\/em> 35\u201342, 1989\u20131996, lk 106\u2013108). Lembit Vaba argumenteerib, et pussu<\/em>– l\u00e4htub l\u00e4ti pu\u0161\u0137<\/em>-t\u00fcvest, mis on hulga tuletiste n\u00e4ol seotud pulmadega. V\u00f5imalikud l\u00f5unaeestilised pussu<\/em>-s\u00f5nad m\u00e4rgivad kas vanap\u00e4rase pulma tegelasi v\u00f5i mingit omaaegset pruudiehet. Lisaks toob ta \u00e4ra meiegi kontekstis olulise\u00a0teate Setomaalt: \u201e…pussu\/s\u00f5g\u00f5l<\/em> neljanurgeline riidet\u00fckk (servadest helmestega kaunistatud), mida naised kandsid vanasti tagumiku peal: pussu s\u00f5glal helmekki veereh, sorak\u00f5s\u00f5\u2019, tuu ol\u2019l\u2019 umm\u00f5ld viirt p\u2019it\u2019ih, k`\u00f5\u00f5sugumaist v\u00e4`rmi ol\u2019l\u2019 he`l\u2019m\u2019i<\/em>.\u201c<\/p>\n

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Tiit Sibul, n\u00e4ituste korraldaja 1912. aasta vanavara kogumisretkel Setomaale pani Edgar Eisenschmidt oma p\u00e4evikusse kirja k\u00f5ige muu hulgas ka m\u00f5ned t\u00e4helepanuv\u00e4\u00e4rsed read naiste vanema r\u00f5ivastuse kohta. Olohkuva k\u00fclas k\u00f5neles perenaine Issaki Palaga (\u041f\u0435\u043b\u0430\u0433\u0438\u044f \u0418\u0441\u0430\u0430\u043a\u043e\u0432\u0430) talle j\u00e4rgmist: \u201eWanast k\u00f6edeti k\u00f5rik \u00fcmbre perse ja s\u00f5s mindi gul\u00e4nije p\u00e4\u00e4le. J\u00f5hwine s\u00f5gel k\u00f6ideti perse p\u00e4\u00e4le pussu kinnipidamise jaoks \u2013…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":9366,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":true,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[5,10],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-9362","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-museaal","category-teadus"],"yoast_head":"\nPussus\u00f5g\u00f5l perse p\u00e4\u00e4le ja gul\u00e4nijele! - Eesti Rahva Muuseumi ajaveeb<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/blog.erm.ee\/?p=9362\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"et_EE\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Pussus\u00f5g\u00f5l perse p\u00e4\u00e4le ja gul\u00e4nijele! - Eesti Rahva Muuseumi ajaveeb\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Tiit Sibul, n\u00e4ituste korraldaja 1912. aasta vanavara kogumisretkel Setomaale pani Edgar Eisenschmidt oma p\u00e4evikusse kirja k\u00f5ige muu hulgas ka m\u00f5ned t\u00e4helepanuv\u00e4\u00e4rsed read naiste vanema r\u00f5ivastuse kohta. Olohkuva k\u00fclas k\u00f5neles perenaine Issaki Palaga (\u041f\u0435\u043b\u0430\u0433\u0438\u044f \u0418\u0441\u0430\u0430\u043a\u043e\u0432\u0430) talle j\u00e4rgmist: \u201eWanast k\u00f6edeti k\u00f5rik \u00fcmbre perse ja s\u00f5s mindi gul\u00e4nije p\u00e4\u00e4le. 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