{"id":4009,"date":"2013-12-17T08:40:02","date_gmt":"2013-12-17T06:40:02","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/blog.erm.ee\/?p=4009"},"modified":"2014-12-04T15:17:46","modified_gmt":"2014-12-04T13:17:46","slug":"pealaest-jalatallani-ehtne-karin-grabby-matthiesseni-moejooniste-kogu","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.erm.ee\/?p=4009","title":{"rendered":"Pealaest jalatallani ehtne. Karin Grabby-Matthiesseni moejooniste kogu"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Kristina Paju, Tartu K\u00f5rgema Kunstikooli lektor<\/em><\/p>\n

Illustratsioonid: Karin Grabby-Matthiessen<\/em><\/p>\n

Eesti p\u00e4ritolu Karin Grabby-Matthiessen (tuntud ka perekonnanimega Baritsch) on ERMi kogudesse annetanud mitu mahukat mappi originaalsete moejoonistega.<\/p>\n

\"073912_ERM_K_5007\"<\/a>Eestis, 20. detsembril 1913, s\u00fcndinud, kuid Saksamaal Hamburgis moekunstnikuna tegutsenud daam oli vaatamata keerulistele aegadele ja poliitilistele katakl\u00fcsmidele edukas ettev\u00f5tja. Jooniste p\u00f5hjal v\u00f5ib arvata, et Teise maailmas\u00f5ja j\u00e4rgsel k\u00fcmnendil valmis tema ateljees eratellimustena hulgaliselt k\u00f5rgmoodi j\u00e4rgivat loomingut, mille luksuslikust kangakasutusest ning uhkest vormim\u00e4ngust enamik naisi vaid unistada v\u00f5is.<\/p>\n

Kui Christian Dior tutvustas 1947. aastal oma esikkollektsiooni nimega Corolle, l\u00f5i see t\u00e4iesti uue moesuuna, millele ajakirjanikud andsid k\u00e4rmelt nime New Look<\/i>. Uus mood vastandus teravalt varasemale saledale, maskuliinsete r\u00f5huasetustega figuurile. Naised, v\u00e4sinud s\u00f5ja-aastate koledustest ning l\u00f5putuna tunduvatest piirangutest (puudus toiduainetest, tarbeesemetest, kangast jms), tervitasid r\u00f5\u00f5muga naiseliku liivakellasilueti j\u00e4rgi vormitud moodi. Uues, ihaldusv\u00e4\u00e4rses riietuses domineeris peenike sipelgapiht ning kulutati ohtralt kangameetreid avaral\u00f5ikeliste klo\u0161\u0161-seelikute tarbeks.<\/p>\n

\"073904_ERM_K_4999\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"073825_ERM_D_41_48_7\"<\/a>Valdav osa Karin Grabby-Matthiesseni moeillustratsioonidest j\u00e4rgibki eelpool kirjeldatud tunnusjooni. Kogus leiduvate jooniste p\u00f5hjal on n\u00e4ha, kuidas kandiline ja \u00f5lajoont r\u00f5hutatud siluett taandub ning moed muutuvad j\u00e4rk-j\u00e4rgult elegantsemaks, l\u00f5ikelised vol\u00fc\u00fcmid suuremaks, geomeetrilisemaks. Kuna moeuuenduste tegemisel andsid tooni Pariisi k\u00f5rgmoemajad, siis kopeeriti k\u00fcmnendi jooksul laialdaselt Diori, Balenciaga, Givenchy jt loomingut.<\/p>\n

\"073824_ERM_D_41_48_7\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"074006_ERM_K_5100\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Moejoonistel on n\u00e4ha pidulikesse \u00f5htukleitidesse v\u00f5i siis p\u00e4evastesse kleitidesse-kost\u00fc\u00fcmidesse riietatud daame, kes poseerivad klassikalises \u201euue moe\u201c poosis, \u00fcks jalg koketselt teise ette seatud. K\u00f5rgmoele omaselt on riietus h\u00e4sti l\u00e4bi t\u00f6\u00f6tatud \u2013 lisatud on keerukaid, sageli as\u00fcmmeetrilise paigutusega drapeeringuid, voldistikke, ootamatuid l\u00f5ikelisi lahendusi, dekoratiivseid rev\u00e4\u00e4re, kraesid, mansette ja taskuid. Sageli saadab komplekte ka kokkusobiv kindapaar, peakate, p\u00e4evavari, k\u00e4ekott, mis sel ajal kuulus daamiliku riietuse raudvara hulka.<\/p>\n

Illustratsioonid ise on valdavalt teostatud moodidega koosk\u00f5las olevate peenekontuuriliste joonistena. M\u00f5ned \u00fcksikud kavandid on must-valge graafikaga, suurem osa koloreeritud. Lisaks v\u00f5imalikult elegantsete pooside tabamisele on t\u00e4helepanu p\u00f6\u00f6ratud ka kanga t\u00f5etruule kujutamisele, andes edasi muljet erineva raskuse ja t\u00f6\u00f6tlusega materjalide langevusest (nt villane kost\u00fc\u00fcmiriie, peenevoldiline plisseer, karusnahk).<\/p>\n

\"074032_ERM_K_4822\"<\/a>Tundub, et jooniste autor oli pigem moelooja kui -illustraator. Kuigi tal on \u00f5nnestunud \u00fclimalt lihtsate vahenditega ning kohati uskumatu kergusega kujutada moodsaid naisi, on tema joonised loodud pigem funktsionaalsete dokumentidena. On ju ideede visualiseerimine \u00fcks osa ateljeed pidava moekunstniku tegevusest \u2013 luua ihaldusv\u00e4\u00e4rseid, kuid samas praktilisi ja kantavaid mudeleid, millega kliendid samastuksid ning mille j\u00e4rgi komplekte teostavad \u00f5mblejad joonduksid.<\/p>\n

Moeillustratsioon on omamoodi ajastut j\u00e4rgiv dokument, mis v\u00f5tab laiemalt kokku kogu moega seonduva \u2013 inimeste ihad ja unistused, ootused v\u00e4ljan\u00e4gemisele, maitse-eelistused, normid ja reeglid. Ka nendes illustratsioonides on talletunud k\u00fcbeke salongilikkust. Need t\u00f6\u00f6d j\u00e4\u00e4dvustavad k\u00f5rgmoe viimast, kuldset k\u00fcmnendit, kus kehtisid veel vana maailma reeglid \u2013 au sees olid eksklusiivsus, kordumatus ja k\u00e4sit\u00f6\u00f6oskused. Sedasama m\u00f5ttek\u00e4iku on \u00fches ERMile antud videoj\u00e4\u00e4dvustuses tunnistanud ka autor ise, \u00f6eldes: \u201eMinu joonised on pealaest jalatallani ehtsad!\u201c.<\/p>\n

\"074016_ERM_K_5110\"<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

————-
\nVt ka blogipostitust “Karin Grabby-Matthiessen-Baritsch ja tema naiselik mood<\/a>“<\/p>\n

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Kristina Paju, Tartu K\u00f5rgema Kunstikooli lektor Illustratsioonid: Karin Grabby-Matthiessen Eesti p\u00e4ritolu Karin Grabby-Matthiessen (tuntud ka perekonnanimega Baritsch) on ERMi kogudesse annetanud mitu mahukat mappi originaalsete moejoonistega. Eestis, 20. detsembril 1913, s\u00fcndinud, kuid Saksamaal Hamburgis moekunstnikuna tegutsenud daam oli vaatamata keerulistele aegadele ja poliitilistele katakl\u00fcsmidele edukas ettev\u00f5tja. Jooniste p\u00f5hjal v\u00f5ib arvata, et Teise maailmas\u00f5ja j\u00e4rgsel k\u00fcmnendil…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4025,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4009","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-museaal"],"yoast_head":"\nPealaest jalatallani ehtne. 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