{"id":18130,"date":"2026-04-27T16:54:07","date_gmt":"2026-04-27T13:54:07","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blog.erm.ee\/?p=18130"},"modified":"2026-04-27T16:54:07","modified_gmt":"2026-04-27T13:54:07","slug":"tekstiilide-varvimine-on-murgine-ja-laastab-keskkonda","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.erm.ee\/?p=18130","title":{"rendered":"Tekstiilide v\u00e4rvimine on m\u00fcrgine ja laastab keskkonda"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Kerttu Palgin\u00f5mm, kunstiajaloolane ja n\u00e4ituse “Meie r\u00f5iva v\u00e4rvid” \u00fcks kuraatoritest<\/em><\/p>\n

Mida mina teha saan?<\/strong><\/p>\n

ERMi n\u00e4itusele \u201eMeie r\u00f5iva v\u00e4rvid. Kohalik ja kauge\u201c<\/a> on vundamendi ladunud Euroopa Horisondi projekt Colour4CRAFTS. Kuigi n\u00e4ituse p\u00f5hifookus on meie v\u00e4rvimistraditsioonidel ja r\u00f5ivastel, tegeleb projekt Colour4CRAFTS<\/a> testiiliv\u00e4rvimise probleemidega ka t\u00e4nap\u00e4eva kontekstis.\u00a0 Projekti partnerid, nagu Leedsi \u00fclikool, Helsingi \u00fclikool v\u00f5i Prantsusmaa v\u00e4rviettev\u00f5te Pili, proovivad leida j\u00e4tkusuutlikke meetodeid, mis leevendaksid tekstiiliv\u00e4rvimise keskkonnam\u00f5ju.<\/p>\n

S\u00fcnteetiliste v\u00e4rvide suur keskkonnam\u00f5ju<\/strong><\/p>\n

Tekstiilide v\u00e4rvimine oli suuremahuline, intensiivne ja m\u00fcrgine juba enne s\u00fcnteetiliste v\u00e4rvide kasutuselev\u00f5ttu 19. sajandil. Milles seisneb kiudude, l\u00f5nga ja kangav\u00e4rvimise p\u00f5hiprobleem? K\u00f5ige suurem murekoht on v\u00e4rvimiseks vajalik veehulk ja selles hiljem sisalduvad m\u00fcrgised j\u00e4\u00e4gid. Kemikaale kasutatakse mitmes etapis, et v\u00e4rv n\u00e4iteks paremini kiule kinnituks. \u00dched peamistest tekstiilieksportijatest on Hiina ja India.<\/p>\n

\"V\u00e4rvimisvabrik

V\u00e4rvimisvabrik Shaoxing\u2019is, Binhai t\u00f6\u00f6stuspiirkonnas Hiinas. Foto: Lu Guang \/ Greenpeace 2012<\/p><\/div>\n

Enamik v\u00e4rvimisest toimubki Euroopast kaugel Aasias, kus reovesi rikub j\u00f5evee kvaliteeti. Tihti me seda k\u00f5ike ei n\u00e4e, nii et me ei oskagi siin probleemi n\u00e4ha. Samal ajal \u00e4\u00e4ristab Bangladeshis tekstiilipr\u00fcgi j\u00f5e\u00e4\u00e4ri ja voolav vesi on v\u00e4rvunud punaseks v\u00f5i siniseks. See k\u00f5ik j\u00f5uab l\u00f5puks ookeani, kus m\u00fcrgid kahjustavad omakorda vee-elustikku. Muidugi puudutab see samav\u00f5rra ka mageveekogusid.<\/p>\n

\"Plasti-

Plasti- ja tekstiilireostus Ghana pealinna Accra l\u00e4histel Korle laguuni rannas. Foto: Kevin McElvaney, Greenpeace 2023<\/p><\/div>\n

Reovees sisalduvad v\u00e4rvij\u00e4\u00e4gid on sageli toksilised ja tekitavad terviseriski nii loomadele kui ka inimestele. \u00dched t\u00fc\u00fcpilisemad on n\u00e4iteks v\u00e4hi teket p\u00f5hjustavad ained. Kaugel kolmandates riikides v\u00f5ivad standardid olla hoopis teistsugused, kui meie sooviks, ja seet\u00f5ttu on ette tulnud juhtumeid, kus p\u00e4rast keemilist anal\u00fc\u00fcsi kutsutakse kiirmoeketi r\u00f5ivakollektsioon tagasi. N\u00e4iteks on Greenpeace mitu korda anal\u00fc\u00fcsinud sedalaadi kollektsioone. Aastal 2012 oli programmis \u201eToksilised kiud\u201c uurimise all 20 \u00fclemaailmset br\u00e4ndi (vaata l\u00e4hemalt<\/a>). Halvas m\u00f5ttes j\u00e4i s\u00f5elale Zara, kelle r\u00f5ivastest tuvastati kantserogeenseid v\u00e4rvaineid. Ettev\u00f5te v\u00f5ttis seepeale eesm\u00e4rgiks toksilistest kemikaalidest loobumise 2020. aastaks. Anal\u00fc\u00fcsid, mida on tehtud Aasiast tellitavale kaubale \u00fcldisemalt, on n\u00e4idanud samasuguste ohtlike ainete olemasolu (vaata l\u00e4hemalt<\/a>).<\/p>\n

Kangav\u00e4rvimise innovaatilised lahendused<\/strong><\/p>\n

Colour4CRAFTSi partnerid on keskendunud just k\u00f5ige olulisematele keskkonnam\u00f5ju aspektidele, n\u00e4iteks CO\u2082-heitele atmosf\u00e4\u00e4ri, fossiilsetest saadustest v\u00e4rvainete tootmisele ja suurele veekulule. Oluline on m\u00f5ista, et palju vett on vaja ka loodusv\u00e4rvidega v\u00e4rvimisel, samuti kasutatakse ka nende puhul teatud kemikaale, mida tunneme peitsainetena (nt maarjaj\u00e4\u00e4). Leedsi \u00fclikool Suurbritannias on seet\u00f5ttu v\u00e4lja arendanud nn \u00fclekriitilise CO2 tehnoloogia, mille k\u00e4igus kasutatakse loodusv\u00e4rve ja, mis k\u00f5ige t\u00e4htsam,\u00a0 see on t\u00e4ielikult veevaba. Eraldi aspekt on tegelikult loodusv\u00e4rvide valgus- ja pesukindluse suurendamine, milles on edusamme teinud Helsingi \u00fclikool. Sealne teadlane Chris Carr on samas \u00f5hku paisanud k\u00fcsimuse, et kui me kasutame kiirmoodi ja loobume r\u00f5ivastest ruttu, siis kas valgus- ja pesukindlus on \u00fcldse oluline (vaata l\u00e4hemalt<\/a>). \u00a0Sellisel juhul saaksime nendega asendada kestvamad s\u00fcnteetilised v\u00e4rvid.<\/p>\n

V\u00e4rviettev\u00f5te Pili on omakorda orienteeritud s\u00fcnteetilise indigo asendamisele mikroobidega toodetud indigoga. Selle protsessi raames toimub samasugune k\u00e4\u00e4rimisprotsess nagu \u00f5lletootmises ja sel viisil toodetud indigot kasutatakse juba \u00f6kos\u00f5bralikus teksatootmises. Kui viia niisugune tootmise aga massiliseks, m\u00f5jutaks see ikkagi keskkonda. Seet\u00f5ttu on innovaatilised protsessid sageli ikkagi ni\u0161ile orienteeritud.<\/p>\n

\"Prantsuse

Prantsuse v\u00e4rviettev\u00f5tte Pili biop\u00f5hise indigoga v\u00e4rvitud niit<\/p><\/div>\n

Kuidas me ometi saaks maailma muuta?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Kas lahendus on loodusv\u00e4rvide kasutuselev\u00f5tmine? Nagu varemgi \u00f6eldud, on t\u00f5ele au andes iga v\u00e4rvimisprotsess suurel m\u00e4\u00e4ral reostav ja siin ei aita meid ka loodusv\u00e4rvid. Suure veekulu v\u00f5i n\u00e4iteks kemikaalidega seotud probleemid j\u00e4\u00e4vad. Innovatsioon, mis v\u00f5iks lahenduse tuua, ei j\u00f5ua vahel majanduse toimimisloogika t\u00f5ttu kasutusse. Uuenduslikud meetodid n\u00f5uavad lisainvesteeringuid, ei too nii kiiresti majanduslikku kasu v\u00f5i on puudu kommunikatsioonist ja turundusest.<\/p>\n

Siiski on meil k\u00f5igil v\u00f5imalik kaasa aidata ja see on tegelikult \u00fcpris lihtne. Probleemid saavad alguse \u00fcletarbimisest, t\u00e4psemalt kiirmoest, kus materjalid on kehvad, aga v\u00e4rvid vastupidavad. Riided kuluvad ruttu, mist\u00f5ttu kogu aeg on vaja uusi. Materjale ja v\u00e4rve tulekski vaadata k\u00e4sik\u00e4es. Samas on r\u00f5ivaturul v\u00e4ga palju l\u00e4bipaistmatust. Toote etiketil on k\u00fcll m\u00e4rgitud tekstiilimaterjal, aga seal poe kunagi teavet v\u00e4rvide kohta, mis on tootja saladus. Meie ainus v\u00f5imalus m\u00e4ngu muuta on tarbida v\u00e4hem ja paremast materjalist tooteid, mis kestaks kauem.<\/p>\n

\"Naturaalsetes,

Naturaalsetes, v\u00e4rvimata toonides riiete kasutamine on \u00fcks v\u00f5imalus tekstiilit\u00f6\u00f6stuse keskkonnam\u00f5ju v\u00e4hendamiseks. Vaade n\u00e4itusele \u201eMeie r\u00f5iva v\u00e4rvid. Kohalik ja kauge\u201c. Foto: Berta J\u00e4nes<\/p><\/div>\n

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<\/div><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Kerttu Palgin\u00f5mm, kunstiajaloolane ja n\u00e4ituse “Meie r\u00f5iva v\u00e4rvid” \u00fcks kuraatoritest Mida mina teha saan? ERMi n\u00e4itusele \u201eMeie r\u00f5iva v\u00e4rvid. Kohalik ja kauge\u201c on vundamendi ladunud Euroopa Horisondi projekt Colour4CRAFTS. Kuigi n\u00e4ituse p\u00f5hifookus on meie v\u00e4rvimistraditsioonidel ja r\u00f5ivastel, tegeleb projekt Colour4CRAFTS testiiliv\u00e4rvimise probleemidega ka t\u00e4nap\u00e4eva kontekstis.\u00a0 Projekti partnerid, nagu Leedsi \u00fclikool, Helsingi \u00fclikool v\u00f5i Prantsusmaa v\u00e4rviettev\u00f5te…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":18131,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[7],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-18130","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-naitus"],"yoast_head":"\nTekstiilide v\u00e4rvimine on m\u00fcrgine ja laastab keskkonda - Eesti Rahva Muuseumi ajaveeb<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Tekstiilide v\u00e4rvimine koormab keskkonda rohkem, kui arvame. 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Uuri, miks see on probleem ja mida saad ise teha, et v\u00e4hendada kiirmoe m\u00f5ju.","breadcrumb":{"@id":"https:\/\/blog.erm.ee\/?p=18130#breadcrumb"},"inLanguage":"et","potentialAction":[{"@type":"ReadAction","target":["https:\/\/blog.erm.ee\/?p=18130"]}]},{"@type":"ImageObject","inLanguage":"et","@id":"https:\/\/blog.erm.ee\/?p=18130#primaryimage","url":"https:\/\/blog.erm.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/Pilt-1_vabrik-Hiinas-scaled.jpg","contentUrl":"https:\/\/blog.erm.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/Pilt-1_vabrik-Hiinas-scaled.jpg","width":2560,"height":1707,"caption":"A plant with five dyeing machines will need about 250kg of dye, along with other additives. Aproximately 2500kg of dyestuff paste circulates the plant every day. 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