{"id":18076,"date":"2026-03-27T12:59:38","date_gmt":"2026-03-27T10:59:38","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blog.erm.ee\/?p=18076"},"modified":"2026-03-27T13:00:18","modified_gmt":"2026-03-27T11:00:18","slug":"must-muda-ja-maage","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.erm.ee\/?p=18076","title":{"rendered":"Must, muda ja maage"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Liis Luhamaa, n\u00e4ituse “Meie r\u00f5iva v\u00e4rvid. Kohalik ja kauge” kuraator<\/em><\/p>\n

Must v\u00e4rv on nii pidulikes kui ka igap\u00e4evastes r\u00f5ivastes alati palju kasutust leidnud. Arvatavasti on \u00fcks vanemaid meetodeid mustjate toonide v\u00e4rvimiseks rauarikka muda ja parkainerohkete taimematerjalide, n\u00e4iteks puukoorte kasutamine. Kui rauda ja parkaineid kasutati v\u00e4rvimisel koos, siis muutus tekstiil t\u00e4nu raudtannaadi tekkele halliks v\u00f5i mustaks. Sellisel viisil on v\u00e4rvitud k\u00f5ikjal maailmas, nii Uus-Meremaal, Malis, Jaapanis, Hiinas kui ka mitmes Euroopa riigis, muu hulgas Eestis.<\/p>\n

Mudaga mustaks v\u00e4rvimise kirjeldused Eesti arhiivimaterjalis sisaldavad sageli s\u00f5na maage. <\/em>Mis see aga t\u00e4pselt on?<\/p>\n

Maage ja kust seda leida<\/strong><\/p>\n

Maageks nimetati sellist muda, milles oli rohkelt rauda. Kui arhiivimaterjalides kirjutati maakega v\u00e4rvimisest<\/em>, siis oli juttu rauarikka muda kasutamisest v\u00e4rvimisel. Selle s\u00f5na uurimine rahvusvahelise ajalooliste tekstiiliv\u00e4rvide projekti Colour4CRAFTS<\/a> raames aitas aru saada, kuidas t\u00e4pselt maage ehk rauarikka muda leiukohti Eestis vanasti looduses \u00e4ra tunti.<\/p>\n

Selgus, et k\u00f5ige paremini tunneb rauarikka muda koha \u00e4ra selle j\u00e4rgi, et seda katvale veele tekib peale vikerkaarev\u00e4rvides s\u00e4delev kiht (foto 1). M\u00f5ned arhiiviteated, mida v\u00f5ib leida n\u00e4iteks Eesti Keele Instituudi eesti ja soome-ugri murrete t\u00e4hestikulisest kataloogist (m\u00e4rks\u00f5na: maage), on seda kirjeldades lausa poeetilised, \u00f6eldes n\u00e4iteks, et maaget katvale veele \u201et\u00f5mbab p\u00e4\u00e4le nagu kullanaha\u201c. T\u00e4nap\u00e4eva inimesele v\u00f5ib see kiht meenutada hoopis autok\u00fctuse reostust, nagu on sageli n\u00e4ha parkimisplatsil porilompide peal. Erinevalt autok\u00fctusest j\u00e4\u00e4b rauamudapealne kiht t\u00fckiliseks ega voola kokku, kui see n\u00e4iteks s\u00f5rmega \u00fcle veepinna t\u00f5mmates katki teha. Samuti on rauarikka muda leiukohtades n\u00e4ha oks\u00fcdeerunud raua t\u00f5ttu roostekarva muda ladestusi, ent v\u00e4rvimiseks sobib just see muda, mis on s\u00e4deleva kihi all (foto 2).<\/p>\n

\"S\u00e4delev,

S\u00e4delev, kergelt t\u00fckiline kiht veepinnal ja roostepunane v\u00e4rvus viitavad rauarikka muda asukohale. Luutsna j\u00f5kke suubuv kraav Tartu l\u00e4histel. Foto Berta J\u00e4nes<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Foto

Foto 2: Liis Luhamaa Luutsna j\u00f5e kraavist maaget kogumas. Foto Heikki Luhamaa<\/p><\/div>\n

Muutunud maastikud<\/strong><\/p>\n

Lugedes arhiivikirjeldusi maage leiukohtadest ja seda loodusest otsides torkasid teravalt silma meie maastikes aja jooksul toimunud muutused. Kui vanasti leidus maaget peamiselt soodes jt looduslikel m\u00e4rgaladel seisva veega lohkudes, siis n\u00fc\u00fcdsed leiukohad olid eelk\u00f5ige inimtekkelised kraavid. See ei ole \u00fcllatav, arvestades, et ligikaudu kaks kolmandikku Eesti soodest on kuivendatud ning madalsood on peaaegu t\u00e4ielikult kadunud. Samuti on kadunud paljud soostunud niidud, mis olid kunagi karjatamise t\u00f5ttu avatud maastikud \u2013 needki on n\u00fc\u00fcdseks v\u00f5sastunud v\u00f5i metsastunud.<\/p>\n

Kuidas maagega musta v\u00e4rviti?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Eduard Kriitm\u00e4e on 1906. aastal \u00fcles kirjutanud \u00fcpris detailse kirjelduse selle kohta, mis hoiul Eesti Kirjandusmuuseumi Eesti Kultuuriloolises Arhiivis. Info on ta oma s\u00f5nade j\u00e4rgi \u201ewanade inimeste k\u00e4est korjanud\u201c. Kirjeldusele on ta v\u00e4rvimist uurivate p\u00e4randtehnoloogide r\u00f5\u00f5muks juurde joonistanud isegi v\u00e4ikese skeemi, millelt n\u00e4ha, kuidas kangas mudaga vaheliti lapiti (foto 3).<\/p>\n

Kriitm\u00e4e kirjutas nii:<\/p>\n

\u201eSoo muda hall, riie ja l\u00f5ngad. W\u00e4rwimine s\u00fcndis kewadel. Soomaa sisse kaevatagu kraawi moodi auk, kangas saab pandud, kord riet, teine muda, nii moodi saab m\u00e4ssitud.<\/p>\n

Siis on leutadud n\u00e4dali p\u00e4ewad. Ja kui w\u00e4lja w\u00f5etud, siis pandud kuiwama. Kuiwamise j\u00e4rel on pestud lehelisega \u00fcle siis riie on j\u00e4nud mustjas hall. Kui valkjas halli on tahetud siis on w\u00e4hem aega peetud muda sees ja kangema lehelisega pestud.<\/p>\n

Nisamma moodi on ka l\u00f5ngadega.\u201c<\/p>\n

\"Foto

Foto 3. Eduard Kriitm\u00e4e teade soomudaga v\u00e4rvimisest koos lihtsa skeemiga, mis illustreerib kanga mudasse asetamise viisi (EKLA, f 169, M 381:10).<\/p><\/div>\n

Teine retsept, mille t\u00e4hendas \u00fcles 19. sajandi alguses Setomaal ringi reisinud sakslane Christian Schlegel oma raamatus \u201cReise von St. Petersburg nach dem Pleskowschen Gouvernement im Monat Julius 1815<\/em>\u201d, kirjeldab \u00fcksikasjalikult, kuidas Seto t\u00fcdrukud ja naised sel ajal linaset kangast argir\u00f5ivaste tarbeks mustaks v\u00e4rvisid. Kangast v\u00e4rviti esmalt tuhaleelisega keedetud kasekoorekeeduses ja kuivatati seej\u00e4rel p\u00e4ikese k\u00e4es. Siis j\u00e4eti see \u00fcle\u00f6\u00f6 rauarikast soovett sisaldavasse auku likku ning l\u00f5puks keedeti veel kord puukoorest valmistatud v\u00e4rvivees. Kuna muuseumikogudes on s\u00e4ilinud eelk\u00f5ige pidulikud r\u00f5ivad, pakub see retsept v\u00f5imalust luua uuesti toone, mida kasutati ajalooliselt siinses piirkonnas igap\u00e4evaste r\u00f5ivaste puhul (foto 4).<\/p>\n

\"Foto

Foto 4. Linane kangas, mis v\u00e4rvitud 19. sajandi alguses Setomaalt kogutud kirjeldusele toetudes. Etapid \u00fclevalt alla: pesemata ja pleegitamata kangas, kangas p\u00e4rast pesu, kasekoorte ja tuhaleelise keeduses hautatud kangas, \u00fcle\u00f6\u00f6 rauamudas hoitud kangas, kasekoorte keeduses uuesti \u00fcle v\u00e4rvitud kangas. V\u00e4rvis Liis Luhamaa. Foto Anu Ansu<\/p><\/div>\n

Maage ja maagega v\u00e4rvitud kangad n\u00e4itusel \u201cMeie r\u00f5iva v\u00e4rvid\u201d<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n

N\u00e4itusel saab maaget ja maagega mustjaks v\u00e4rvitud tekstiile oma silmaga vaadata (foto 5). \u00a0Loodusv\u00e4rvihuvilistel, kes tahaksid ise maagega v\u00e4rvimist katsetada, tasub praegusel kaunil kevadisel ajal v\u00e4ljas jalutades kraavidele pilk peale heita \u2013 v\u00f5ib-olla sillerdab m\u00f5ni neist, justkui oleks kullanahaga kaetud!<\/p>\n

\"Foto

Foto 5. Rauarikka mudaga v\u00e4rvitud taimetr\u00fckitekstiil. Autor \u00dclle Saatm\u00e4e. Foto ERM.<\/p><\/div>\n

 <\/p>\n

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Liis Luhamaa, n\u00e4ituse “Meie r\u00f5iva v\u00e4rvid. Kohalik ja kauge” kuraator Must v\u00e4rv on nii pidulikes kui ka igap\u00e4evastes r\u00f5ivastes alati palju kasutust leidnud. Arvatavasti on \u00fcks vanemaid meetodeid mustjate toonide v\u00e4rvimiseks rauarikka muda ja parkainerohkete taimematerjalide, n\u00e4iteks puukoorte kasutamine. Kui rauda ja parkaineid kasutati v\u00e4rvimisel koos, siis muutus tekstiil t\u00e4nu raudtannaadi tekkele halliks v\u00f5i mustaks.…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":18081,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[7,10],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-18076","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-naitus","category-teadus"],"yoast_head":"\nMust, muda ja maage - Eesti Rahva Muuseumi ajaveeb<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Avasta, kuidas maage ehk rauarikka muda abil v\u00e4rviti ajalooliselt tekstiile mustaks ning kuidas seda traditsiooni kasutatakse t\u00e4nap\u00e4eval.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/blog.erm.ee\/?p=18076\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"et_EE\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Must, muda ja maage - 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