{"id":17946,"date":"2026-02-06T12:08:39","date_gmt":"2026-02-06T10:08:39","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blog.erm.ee\/?p=17946"},"modified":"2026-02-06T12:08:39","modified_gmt":"2026-02-06T10:08:39","slug":"tekstiilide-varvimine-looduslike-varvidega-naitus-ermis","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.erm.ee\/?p=17946","title":{"rendered":"Meie r\u00f5iva v\u00e4rvide lugu"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Liisi J\u00e4\u00e4ts, kuraator<\/em><\/p>\n

ERMis on ajalooliste r\u00f5ivaste, nende v\u00e4rvik\u00fclluse ja mustritega tegeldud juba ammu, paljude n\u00e4ituste ja raamatute kaudu. Aga n\u00e4itusel \u201eMeie r\u00f5iva v\u00e4rvid. Kohalik ja kauge\u201c uurime tekstiile hoopis teise nurga alt. Kuidas ikkagi on saadud selle kuue sinine toon v\u00f5i selle v\u00f6\u00f6 punased kirjad?\u00a0 Mida \u00f5ieti t\u00e4hendab potisinine ja kuidas uriin siin asjasse puutus? Kas punase v\u00e4rvi saamiseks mindi, korv ja hark kaasas, alati v\u00e4rvmadarajuuri maa seest v\u00e4lja kaevama v\u00f5i oli ka teisi v\u00f5imalusi?<\/p>\n

N\u00e4itus kajastab rahvusvahelise teadusprojekti \u201eColour4CRAFTS\u201c<\/a> peamisi uurimissuundi: kuidas vanal ajal loodusv\u00e4rvidega r\u00f5ivaid v\u00e4rviti ja kuidas saaks neid teadmisi t\u00e4nap\u00e4eval kasutada looduss\u00f5bralikumate v\u00e4rvainete tootmiseks.<\/p>\n

Kohalikud ja globaalsed v\u00e4rvid<\/strong><\/p>\n

P\u00e4randtehnoloogia spetsialist Liis Luhamaa ja arheoloog Riina Rammo Tartu \u00dclikoolist on projekti raames otsinud vastust just loodusv\u00e4rvide ajalugu puudutavatele k\u00fcsimustele. T\u00e4nap\u00e4evased anal\u00fc\u00fcsimeetodid v\u00f5imaldavad sageli (ehkki mitte alati) kindlaks teha, mis v\u00e4rvainega ajalooline tekstiil on v\u00e4rvitud. Anal\u00fc\u00fcsid n\u00e4itavad, et \u00fcllatavalt suur hulk projekti raames anal\u00fc\u00fcsitud 19. sajandi eestlaste r\u00f5ivaesemetest ei ole sugugi v\u00e4rvitud omamaiste taimedega, vaid poest ostetud v\u00e4rvainetega. K\u00fcll loodusv\u00e4rvidega, aga sellistega, mis kasvatatud L\u00f5una-Ameerikas, Indias, T\u00fcrgis v\u00f5i m\u00f5nes muus kauges paigas. Indigo sinise jaoks, ko\u0161enillit\u00e4id ja brasilipuupuit punase v\u00e4rvimiseks saabusid teiselt poolt maakera, aga j\u00f5udsid siiski eesti talunaise v\u00e4heste ostukaupade sekka ja edasi kodus v\u00e4rvitud kangaste sisse.<\/p>\n

\"Kuivatatud

Kuivatatud ko\u0161enillit\u00e4id. Foto: Berta J\u00e4nes<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Kuivatatud

Kiriv\u00f6\u00f6d, kus punased kirjad on v\u00e4rvitud ko\u0161enilliga. Foto: Berta J\u00e4nes<\/p><\/div>\n

Ostuv\u00e4rvide kasutamise k\u00f5rval j\u00e4id aga alles oskused kasutada kohaliku looduse ande. Kildhaaval arhiiviallikatest seda pilti koondades ja eksperimente tehes on Liis Luhamaa taaselustanud seni unustuse h\u00f5lma j\u00e4\u00e4nud v\u00e4rvimisretsepte. Nii p\u00fc\u00fcab n\u00e4itusel pilku h\u00e4mmastavalt lai punakates, roosades ja lillakates toonides l\u00f5ngade palett, mille saamiseks oli vaja m\u00e4dandada paakspuukoori. Kanga mustjaks v\u00e4rvimiseks oli aga tarvis leida oja v\u00f5i kraav, kust saaks koguda rauarikast muda.<\/p>\n

\"M\u00e4dandatud

M\u00e4dandatud paakspuukoortest saab palju punakaid toone. Foto: Berta J\u00e4nes<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Tekstiilikunstnik

Tekstiilikunstnik \u00dclle Saatm\u00e4e katsetas, mis tulemuse see annab, kui lisada rauarikka mudaga mustaks v\u00e4rvitud kangale taimetr\u00fcki muster. Foto: Berta J\u00e4nes<\/p><\/div>\n

V\u00e4rvil on hind<\/strong><\/p>\n

Erksav\u00e4rviliste riiete hind on alati olnud \u00fchel v\u00f5i teisel viisil k\u00f5rge. Kauges minevikus olid ilusat tugevat tooni r\u00f5ivad kallid ja neid ei saanud kaugeltki k\u00f5ik endale lubada.<\/p>\n

18. sajandil toodeti suur osa looduslikke v\u00e4rvaineid juba Euroopa riikide kolooniates Ameerikas ja Aasias ning L\u00e4\u00e4ne-Euroopa v\u00e4rviturgu m\u00f5jutas paisuv globaalne kaubandus. Eksootilised v\u00e4rvid olid selleks perioodiks j\u00f5udnud ka Euroopa lihtrahvani, mis sai v\u00f5imalikuks osalt kolooniate t\u00f6\u00f6j\u00f5u madala palga v\u00f5i orjat\u00f6\u00f6 kasutamise ning sealse looduskeskkonna r\u00fc\u00fcstamise t\u00f5ttu.<\/p>\n

19. sajandi teisel poolel vallutasid tekstiilit\u00f6\u00f6stuse s\u00fcnteetilised kangav\u00e4rvid. J\u00e4rsku oli k\u00e4ttesaadav senin\u00e4gematu valik eredaid v\u00e4rvitoone, mis tegid ka hinna poolest looduslikele v\u00e4rvainetele silmad ette. Medali teine k\u00fclg oli aga varasemaga v\u00f5rreldes hullem looduse reostamine.<\/p>\n

\"Kaart

Kaart n\u00e4itusel, mis kujutab maailma piirkondi, kust v\u00e4rvained Eestisse j\u00f5udsid. Foto: Berta J\u00e4nes<\/p><\/div>\n

N\u00fc\u00fcdki oleme silmitsi moraalse dilemmaga: s\u00fcnteetilised v\u00e4rvained saastavad keskkonda, eriti vett, mida kanga v\u00e4rvimiseks kulub tohutul hulgal. Valdav osa tekstiili- ja r\u00f5ivat\u00f6\u00f6stust tegutseb Aasia riikides, kus kontroll keskkonnan\u00f5uete t\u00e4itmise \u00fcle on n\u00f5rk. \u00dchtlasi tarbime me riideid rohkem kui kunagi varem, mis m\u00f5istagi t\u00e4hendab v\u00e4rvainete tootmise kasvu.<\/p>\n

Juba m\u00f5nda aega tahetakse leida tekstiilit\u00f6\u00f6stuse inetult suurele jalaj\u00e4ljele leevendust. Lahendusi otsitakse mitmelt suunalt. N\u00e4iteks p\u00fc\u00fctakse kohandada t\u00f6\u00f6stuslikku v\u00e4rvimisprotsessi nii, et vett kuluks v\u00f5imalikult v\u00e4he. Ka s\u00fcnteetilistele riidev\u00e4rvidele otsitakse alternatiivi, mis oleks kasutatav t\u00f6\u00f6stuslikus mastaabis, keskkonnas\u00f5bralik ja odav.<\/p>\n

Projekti \u201eColour4CRAFTS\u201c partnerid on suunanud pilgu korraga nii minevikku kui ka tulevikku ning uurivad, mida looduslike v\u00e4rvainetega v\u00e4rvimise p\u00e4randist saaks kohandada t\u00e4nap\u00e4evastele vajadustele. Kuidas peaks muutuma tekstiilidisainerite, tekstiilit\u00f6\u00f6stuse ja meie, r\u00f5ivaste tarbijate harjumused, et keskkonda reostavad s\u00fcnteetilised v\u00e4rvid saaks asendada looduslikega? Seda, et biop\u00f5histe v\u00e4rvide rakendamine tekstiilimaailmas ei ole enam kaugeltki utoopiline m\u00f5te, t\u00f5estavad bakterite abil toodetud indigoga siniseks v\u00e4rvitud teksad, looduslike v\u00e4rviekstraktidega digiprinditud tekstiilin\u00e4idised, \u00fclekriitilise CO2<\/sub> keskkonnas veevabalt biop\u00f5histe v\u00e4rvidega v\u00e4rvitud kangad jm, mis k\u00f5ik on eksponeeritud n\u00e4itusel.<\/p>\n

N\u00e4itus \u201eMeie r\u00f5iva v\u00e4rvid. Kohalik ja kauge\u201c<\/a> on ERMi galeriis avatud kuni augusti l\u00f5puni. \u00dchtlasi j\u00e4rgneb sellele blogiloole veel mitu postitust n\u00e4itusega seotud teemadel.<\/p>\n

\"Need

Need teksap\u00fcksid on v\u00e4rvitud bakterite elutegevuse k\u00f5rvalsaadusena toodetud sinise v\u00e4rviga. Foto: Berta J\u00e4nes<\/p><\/div>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

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Liisi J\u00e4\u00e4ts, kuraator ERMis on ajalooliste r\u00f5ivaste, nende v\u00e4rvik\u00fclluse ja mustritega tegeldud juba ammu, paljude n\u00e4ituste ja raamatute kaudu. Aga n\u00e4itusel \u201eMeie r\u00f5iva v\u00e4rvid. Kohalik ja kauge\u201c uurime tekstiile hoopis teise nurga alt. Kuidas ikkagi on saadud selle kuue sinine toon v\u00f5i selle v\u00f6\u00f6 punased kirjad?\u00a0 Mida \u00f5ieti t\u00e4hendab potisinine ja kuidas uriin siin asjasse…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":17949,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[7,10],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-17946","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-naitus","category-teadus"],"yoast_head":"\nMeie r\u00f5iva v\u00e4rvide lugu - Eesti Rahva Muuseumi ajaveeb<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Kuidas on Eesti ajaloolisi r\u00f5ivaid v\u00e4rvitud? 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Kohalik ja kauge\u201c avab looduslike tekstiiliv\u00e4rvide p\u00e4ritolu, globaalsed m\u00f5jud ja t\u00e4nap\u00e4evased keskkonnas\u00f5bralikud lahendused.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/blog.erm.ee\/?p=17946\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Eesti Rahva Muuseumi ajaveeb\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2026-02-06T10:08:39+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/blog.erm.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/02\/bj0302.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1900\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"1267\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Eesti Rahva Muuseum\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Eesti Rahva Muuseum\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"4 minutit\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/blog.erm.ee\\\/?p=17946#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/blog.erm.ee\\\/?p=17946\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Eesti Rahva Muuseum\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/blog.erm.ee\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/6e98c391cb00a33e7c22a3571e062114\"},\"headline\":\"Meie r\u00f5iva v\u00e4rvide lugu\",\"datePublished\":\"2026-02-06T10:08:39+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/blog.erm.ee\\\/?p=17946\"},\"wordCount\":844,\"commentCount\":0,\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/blog.erm.ee\\\/?p=17946#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/blog.erm.ee\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2026\\\/02\\\/bj0302.jpg\",\"articleSection\":[\"N\u00e4itus\",\"Teadus\"],\"inLanguage\":\"et\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/blog.erm.ee\\\/?p=17946#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/blog.erm.ee\\\/?p=17946\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/blog.erm.ee\\\/?p=17946\",\"name\":\"Meie r\u00f5iva v\u00e4rvide lugu - Eesti Rahva Muuseumi ajaveeb\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/blog.erm.ee\\\/#website\"},\"primaryImageOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/blog.erm.ee\\\/?p=17946#primaryimage\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/blog.erm.ee\\\/?p=17946#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/blog.erm.ee\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2026\\\/02\\\/bj0302.jpg\",\"datePublished\":\"2026-02-06T10:08:39+00:00\",\"author\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/blog.erm.ee\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/6e98c391cb00a33e7c22a3571e062114\"},\"description\":\"Kuidas on Eesti ajaloolisi r\u00f5ivaid v\u00e4rvitud? 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