{"id":12680,"date":"2019-07-02T08:00:15","date_gmt":"2019-07-02T05:00:15","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blog.erm.ee\/?p=12680"},"modified":"2019-06-28T23:48:57","modified_gmt":"2019-06-28T20:48:57","slug":"ehted-rahvaroivaste-juurde","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.erm.ee\/?p=12680","title":{"rendered":"Ehted rahvar\u00f5ivaste juurde"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Reet Piiri, kuraator
\nArtikkel ilmus juubelilaulu- ja tantsupeo 14. uudiskirjas<\/a>.
\n<\/em><\/p>\n

Ehted panevad r\u00f5ivad s\u00e4rama. Kuid ehteid ei kantud ainult ilu ja uhkuse p\u00e4rast, vaid nende kandmine oli seotud ka maagiliste uskumustega, mille kohaselt ehted kaitsesid kandjat k\u00f5ige kurja eest.<\/p>\n

Naised ehtisid end rikkalikult, kasutati nii kaela- kui ka rinnaehteid.<\/p>\n

Kaelaehted<\/h3>\n

Helmekeesid oli naisterahval enamasti mitu. \u00dched helmed olid ihu ligi ja v\u00f5\u00f5ra pilgu eest enam-v\u00e4hem varjul. Neid kutsuti kurguhelmesteks ja kanti s\u00e4rgikrae all. Kaelakee koostati kas sarnastest helmestest v\u00f5i l\u00fckiti \u00fcksteise k\u00f5rvale erineva kuju ja v\u00e4rviga, isegi erinevast materjalist helmeid. Kindlasti s\u00f5ltus helmeste valik ehtekandja v\u00f5imalustest ja maitsest.<\/p>\n

Kee v\u00f5is olla \u00fche- v\u00f5i mitmerealine. Enamasti tehti helmekee nn lahtise keena \u2013 helmed seoti otstest n\u00f6\u00f6riga kukla taha. Nii oli mugav helmeid kaela siduda ja kaelast v\u00f5tta, samuti kee pikkust reguleerida. Tavaliselt helmerida kukla taha ei ulatunud, need oleksid hakanud kukalt h\u00f5\u00f5ruma. Ka umbsena, st ringikujuliselt kokku seatud keed ei t\u00f5mmatud tavaliselt \u00fcle pea. Selline kee seati olenevalt pikkusest kahe- v\u00f5i neljakordselt kokku ning otstest t\u00f5mmati l\u00e4bi n\u00f6\u00f6r v\u00f5i kangaservast rebitud riba ja seoti kukla tagant kokku.<\/p>\n

Helmeid kanti s\u00f5na otseses m\u00f5ttes h\u00e4llist hauani. Pisit\u00fcdrukutele kinkisid esimesed helmed ristivanemad. N\u00e4iteks Anna kihelkonnas on 1914. aastal kirja pandud: Kui t\u00fctarlapsele esimene hammas tuli, siis pidi ristiema helmed kinkima. Kurguhelmeid peeti nii kaitsjaks kui ka \u00f5nnetalismaniks, erilist m\u00f5juj\u00f5udu usuti olevat mustadel kruvilistel helmestel.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

Helmed. Muuseumile kogutud Torma kihelkonnast V\u00f5tikverest 1911. Mustveest ostetud u 1875. ERM 3995<\/p><\/div>\n

Rinnaehted<\/h3>\n

Rinnaeheteks, \u00fchtlasi r\u00f5ivaste kinnitusvahendeiks olid s\u00f5led ja preesid. T\u00e4nap\u00e4eval on harjutud r\u00f5ivaste sulgemisel kasutama n\u00f6\u00f6pe. Rahvar\u00f5ivakandjad teavad, et n\u00f6\u00f6bid olid ainult meeste r\u00f5ivastel, naiste r\u00f5ivastel olid ikka kas haagid v\u00f5i kasutati s\u00f5lgi-preese.<\/p>\n

K\u00f5ige tavalisem ja levinum s\u00e4rgikaeluse koos hoidja on lihtne v\u00e4ike vitss\u00f5lg. Vitss\u00f5lge tarvitasid k\u00f5ik \u2013 nii mehed, naised kui ka lapsed. V\u00e4ike soovitus kandjale \u2013 pange s\u00e4rk vitss\u00f5lega kinni just sellelt k\u00f5rguselt, kus teil on mugav, s\u00f5lg ei tohi mingil juhul kaela soonida. S\u00e4rgikaeluse v\u00f5ib kinnitada ka pisikese preesiga. Sellega piirduski meeste ehtetagavara.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

Vitss\u00f5lg, nimetatud ka meeste preesiks. ERM A 118:1 R\u00f5ngu<\/p><\/div>\n

Kuhiks\u00f5lgi kanti igal pool Eestis. L\u00f5una pool olid need suure l\u00e4bim\u00f5\u00f5duga ja k\u00f5rged, V\u00f5rumaal ja mulkidel v\u00e4ga suured, setu naistel eriti suured. Seevastu Saaremaa kuhiks\u00f5led on v\u00e4ikesed, nagu tagurpidi keeratud kausikesed, ei ole neil vitsa serval ega suu \u00e4\u00e4res. Saaremaal seati pisikesi s\u00f5lgi s\u00e4rgile ritta nii, nagu j\u00f5ukus lubas, kolm kindlasti, m\u00f5ni mahutas ka viis s\u00f5lge \u00fcksteise alla. S\u00f5lgede arv olenes muidugi ka sellest, millal abu serv vastu tuleb. Ja ikka on k\u00f5ige pisem s\u00f5lg \u00fcleval ja nii riburada allapoole, rinnal k\u00f5ige suurem.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

Kuhiks\u00f5lg. V\u00e4ike, 3,6 cm l\u00e4bim\u00f5\u00f5duga s\u00f5lg. Kantud Mustjala kihelkonnas V\u00f5hma k\u00fclas. Saaremaa s\u00f5lgedele omaselt ei ole selle v\u00e4lis\u00e4\u00e4rel ja suuserval vitsa. ERM A 316:490<\/p><\/div>\n

Naised seadsid rinnale s\u00f5le v\u00f5i preesi (silmadega ja ilma) \u00fche- v\u00f5i mitmekaupa, kuidas kusagil kihelkonnas kombeks oli v\u00f5i j\u00f5ukus lubas. Erilise ehterohkusega on silma paistnud nii setud kui ka l\u00e4\u00e4nlased. Setud on tuntud oma suure s\u00f5le ja eriliste metallkettidega \u2013 keerdkeed, pitsilised keed, n\u00f6psidega keed, lehtedega keed jne, mis k\u00f5ik korraga kaela riputati. Kuid ega l\u00e4\u00e4nlastelgi ehteid v\u00e4hem olnud, s\u00f5lg oli k\u00fcll v\u00e4iksem, kuid rind kaeti paaterkeega. Paatriks nimetati L\u00e4\u00e4nemaal rahadega keed, mis koosnes enamasti mitmest reast. H\u00f5berahad l\u00fckiti helmeste vahele ja need olid aetud traadile. Kaarde painutatud traat ulatus umbes \u00f5lani, sealt edasi oli pael, mis kukla tagant kokku seoti. Traati kasutati seet\u00f5ttu, et n\u00f6\u00f6rile aetud rasked rahadega keed vajuksid alla \u00fcksteisele peale ega j\u00e4\u00e4ks ilusate kaartena rinda katma.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

Saaremaa kombe kohaselt on Karja kihelkonna naisel s\u00e4rgi kaelusesse seatud rida v\u00e4ikseid kuhiks\u00f5lgi. Foto Aleksander Arro, 1906. ERM Fk 108:1<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"<\/a>

L\u00e4\u00e4nemaa neiu kaelar\u00e4ti otsad on kinnitatud r\u00e4tin\u00f5elaga. R\u00e4tile on seatud kaks rida rahadega helmeid: \u00fclemises kees ripub \u00fcks raha, alumises kees on helmed ja rahad l\u00fckitud traadile, et kee p\u00fcsiks ilusa kaarena. Foto Friedrich Kohtitsky, 1912. ERM Fk 184:9<\/p><\/div>\n

Rahadega kees kasutati kannaga rahasid, kus h\u00f5beraha serva k\u00fclge on joodetud metallaas-sang. Helmerea keskele sooviti panna kodaratega raha, kus raha \u00fcmbritses a\u017euurne h\u00f5beplekist v\u00e4ljal\u00f5igatud rattakodaraid meenutav serv. Rahad paigutatakse \u201en\u00e4gudega\u201c v\u00e4ljapoole. Et raha metallsang linast n\u00f6\u00f6ri v\u00f5i traat h\u00f5besanga l\u00e4bi ei kulutaks, m\u00e4ssiti \u00fcmber h\u00f5beraha sanga niit.<\/p>\n

Rahade kaelas kandmine oli Eestis 18.-19. sajandil v\u00e4ga populaarne. Vanadelt fotodelt on n\u00e4ha, et suuri h\u00f5berahasid kanti nii h\u00f5beketi otsas kui ka klaashelmestest keedes, m\u00f5nel fotol on n\u00e4ha raha rippumas paela otsas.<\/p>\n

Ehete kandmine<\/h3>\n

Ehete kandmises oli oma kord. 19. sajandil pandi esmalt helmekee kas \u00fche v\u00f5i mitme reana \u00fcmber kaela, nn kurguhelmestena. Seej\u00e4rel kinnitati kaelus vitss\u00f5le v\u00f5i v\u00e4ikese preesiga. Pidupuhkudel asetati keset rinda n\u00e4htavale kohale kuhiks\u00f5lg v\u00f5i suur prees ja selle peale seati mitmes reas rippuma h\u00f5bekettidest, kr\u00f5llidest v\u00f5i helmestest keed. V\u00f5imalusel oli helmekee v\u00f5i h\u00f5bekett t\u00e4iendatud kas \u00fche v\u00f5i mitme h\u00f5berahaga. Kaelakee, kas rahadega v\u00f5i ilma, ulatus tavaliselt s\u00f5le suuni.<\/p>\n

Rinnaehete ehk s\u00f5lgede ja preeside puhul peab vaatama, et need kuuluksid rahvar\u00f5ivakost\u00fc\u00fcmiga samasse piirkonda. K\u00f5ige lihtsam on meeles pidada, et v\u00e4rviliste kivikestega ehk silmadega preese ei sobi kanda L\u00f5una-Eesti riietega. Silmadega prees kuulub P\u00f5hja- ja L\u00e4\u00e4ne-Eesti ning saarte rahvar\u00f5ivakost\u00fc\u00fcmide juurde. Lamedaid sakilise servaga preese sobib kanda igasuguste r\u00f5ivastega, v.a Setu riided. Kesk-Eestis olid moes h\u00e4sti suure l\u00e4bim\u00f5\u00f5duga preesid, neid n\u00e4eb vanadel fotodel nii P\u00f5hja-Viljandimaa kui P\u00f5hja-Tartumaa naiste rinnal.<\/p>\n

S\u00f5led ja preesid on rinnaehted, neid kanti rinna k\u00f5rgusel. Vahel n\u00e4eb, et rahvar\u00f5ivakost\u00fc\u00fcmi kandja on seadnud kuhiks\u00f5le v\u00f5i preesi otse kurgu alla. Sinna k\u00e4is pisikene vits\u00f5lg v\u00f5i \u00fcldse mitte midagi. Kurgualaune ei pea olema t\u00e4iesti suletud.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

N\u00e4ide ehete kandmisest L\u00e4\u00e4nemaal: kaelas traadile aetud helmekeed kannaga rahade ja kodaarrahadega. Rinda ehib kuhiks\u00f5lg, millega on kinnitatud rinnar\u00e4tt. ERM Fk 2887:284<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"<\/a>

N\u00e4ide P\u00f5hja-Eesti ehetest: kaelas kurguhelmed, k\u00e4iste kaelust hoiab koomal silmadega prees, rinnal ehteks kuhiks\u00f5lg. ERM Fk 2887:439<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"<\/a>

N\u00e4ide ehete kandmisest Kesk-Eestis: kaelas kurguhelmed, kaeluses vitss\u00f5lg, rinnal suur prees. ERM Fk 2887:739<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"<\/a>

N\u00e4ide V\u00f5rumaa ehetest: kaelusesse seoti punane pael, helmekee seati \u00fcle selle, rinnale kinnitati suur kuhiks\u00f5lg. ERM Fk 2887:649<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

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Reet Piiri, kuraator Artikkel ilmus juubelilaulu- ja tantsupeo 14. uudiskirjas. Ehted panevad r\u00f5ivad s\u00e4rama. Kuid ehteid ei kantud ainult ilu ja uhkuse p\u00e4rast, vaid nende kandmine oli seotud ka maagiliste uskumustega, mille kohaselt ehted kaitsesid kandjat k\u00f5ige kurja eest. Naised ehtisid end rikkalikult, kasutati nii kaela- kui ka rinnaehteid. Kaelaehted Helmekeesid oli naisterahval enamasti mitu.…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":12684,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[5,19],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-12680","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-museaal","category-sundmus"],"yoast_head":"\nEhted rahvar\u00f5ivaste juurde - Eesti Rahva Muuseumi ajaveeb<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/blog.erm.ee\/?p=12680\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"et_EE\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Ehted rahvar\u00f5ivaste juurde - Eesti Rahva Muuseumi ajaveeb\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Reet Piiri, kuraator Artikkel ilmus juubelilaulu- ja tantsupeo 14. uudiskirjas. Ehted panevad r\u00f5ivad s\u00e4rama. Kuid ehteid ei kantud ainult ilu ja uhkuse p\u00e4rast, vaid nende kandmine oli seotud ka maagiliste uskumustega, mille kohaselt ehted kaitsesid kandjat k\u00f5ige kurja eest. Naised ehtisid end rikkalikult, kasutati nii kaela- kui ka rinnaehteid. 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