{"id":11318,"date":"2018-04-26T07:55:49","date_gmt":"2018-04-26T04:55:49","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/blog.erm.ee\/?p=11318"},"modified":"2018-04-26T09:21:57","modified_gmt":"2018-04-26T06:21:57","slug":"ikrast-kakini","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.erm.ee\/?p=11318","title":{"rendered":"Ikrast k\u00e4kini"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Anu J\u00e4rs, teadur-kuraator<\/em><\/p>\n

15. aprillil algas Peipsil haugip\u00fc\u00fcgi keeluaeg. 15. maini haugi p\u00fc\u00fcda ei tohi, et kala saaks rahulikult paljuneda ning j\u00e4rve kalavarud p\u00fcsiksid. Vanasti oli just kalade kudemisaeg oluliseks p\u00fc\u00fcgihooajaks. Kudemisaegses saagis oli ohtralt kalamarja, millest Peipsimaa rahvas mitmekesiseid roogi valmistas. T\u00e4nane lugu heidab pilgu neile toitudele.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

Peipsi piirkonna ahingud (ERM EJ 42:7). <\/strong> Joonistas kunsti\u00fclipilane Nigul Espe mag. Gustav R\u00e4nga visandite j\u00e4rgi 1931. Kalamehed kasutasid haugi kuduaegset tuima \u00fcmbrusele reageerimist ahingup\u00fc\u00fcgiks. M\u00f6\u00f6dunud sajandi esimesel poolel oli haugi kevadine raiumine \u00fcleujutatud luhtadel veel v\u00e4ga levinud. 1939. aasta kalandusseadusega ahinguga kalap\u00fc\u00fck keelustati. Ahingup\u00fc\u00fck on keelatud ka t\u00e4nap\u00e4eval.<\/p><\/div>\n

Peipsimaal tarvitati s\u00f6\u00f6giks k\u00f5igi kalade marja, \u00fchegi p\u00fc\u00fctud kala marja \u00e4ra ei p\u00f5latud; niiska igal pool siiski ei s\u00f6\u00f6dud. V\u00e4iksematele kaladele j\u00e4eti mari sisse ja eraldi toite sellest ei valmistatud. Suurematest kaladest, kui neid soolamiseks-kuivatamiseks roogiti, v\u00f5eti mari v\u00e4lja.<\/p>\n

Kalamarja s\u00f6\u00f6di nii toorelt, keedetult, praetult kui ka k\u00fcpsetatult. Vanemal ajal on kalamarja s\u00e4ilitamiseks ka kuivatatud, kuid 20. sajandil oli see juba haruldane. Kuivatatud marja toiduks kasutamiseks tuli seda enne m\u00e4rjaks kasta.<\/p>\n

Tavaline oli, et kalamari keedeti soolases vees ja s\u00f6\u00f6di kartuli k\u00f5rvaseks. R\u00e4pina pool keedeti latika mari \u00fches tillidega kartulite sees ja s\u00f6\u00f6di \u201ckuivalt kartoledeg\u00e4\u201d. Uuemal ajal sai kombeks kalamarja pannil rasva sees praadimine – see on kindlasti paljudele tuttav tegevus. Varem tehti k\u00fcdenud ahjus marja liibuskeid<\/em>, pannes kalamarja v\u00e4ikestel plekkidel <\/em>ahju k\u00fcpsetama.<\/p>\n

Kalamarjakoogid, pirukad ja k\u00e4kid<\/h2>\n

Kalamarjast valmistati ka kooke ja pirukaid. Selleks peeti eriti sobivaks haugimarja, teistel polevat \u201cm\u00e4rja olu\u201d, nagu s\u00f5nas \u00fcks Iisaku perenaine, aga sageli kasutati ka s\u00e4rjemarja. Latika-, sudaka- ja ahvenamarja on koogitoorainena harvemini mainitud. Haugimari tambiti nuiaga peeneks, lisati r\u00f5\u00f5ska piima, soola ja jahu. Varemalt tarvitati koogitegemisel, nagu ka kalapirukate k\u00fcpsetamisel, \u00fcldiselt rukkijahu. 1930. aastatel hakati \u00fcha rohkem nisujahu kasutama. Lisaks tehti tainast ka odrajahuga, siis saadi k\u00f5ige k\u00f5vemad koogid. Kalamarjakoogi jaoks segati harilik vedel koogitainas. Mingisuguseid kergitusaineid ei lisatud, kuna mari ise kergitas tainast. Ahju paistel k\u00fcpsetatud koogid tulid \u00f5hukesed, kuni veerand sentimeetri paksused, ilusad pruunid, kohevad ja maitsvad.<\/p>\n

Ka Torma perenaised tegid varem sarnaseid v\u00e4ikseid kooke, k\u00fcpsetades neid pannil ahju rinna all, aga 1930. aastaks oli see komme ununenud. Siis segati koogitainas nisujahuga ning k\u00fcpsetati ahjus \u00fclepannikook, mille suurus olenes panni p\u00f5hja suurusest. Kook toodi lauale ja lauasolijad l\u00f5ikasid omale parajaid palasid nii kui hariliku leiva k\u00fcljest.<\/p>\n

V\u00f5nnus k\u00fcpsetati v\u00e4ikesi kooke pannil rasvaga, piiraka tegemiseks pandi paks tainas panniga ahju k\u00fcpsema.<\/p>\n

Lutsumarja koos -maksa ja -niisaga kasutati Iisakus pirukat\u00e4idises. Need keedeti, segati tangude, maitseainete ning pekiga, pandi leivatainasse ja k\u00fcpsetati pirukaks.<\/p>\n

Kodaveres segati kalamarja ja jahu looma veresse ning valmistati k\u00e4kke, mis k\u00fcpsetati ahjus v\u00f5i pajas vees.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

Naised Kodavere rannas (ERM Fk 620: 212). Foto Gustav Valdmann, 19. sajandi l\u00f5pp.<\/strong><\/p><\/div>\n

Kalamarjasupid<\/h2>\n

Kalamarja kasutati ka supis ja kui marja oli ohtralt, siis keedeti lausa kalamarjasuppi. Kalamarjasupi kohta \u00f6eldi Iisakus, et see on maitsev ja h\u00e4\u00e4 nagu munaroog.<\/p>\n

Iisaku perenaised poetasid supi sisse kalamarja t\u00fckikesi, mille tulemusel ujusid supis v\u00e4ikesed muredad klimbikesed. Kalamarjaklimpe lisasid nad nii kala- kui ka lihasupile.<\/p>\n

Tormas pandi koos marjaga vette keema ka suuremate kalade pead – kalade\u00a0 kuivatamisel j\u00e4i neid ju palju j\u00e4rele. Hiljem kallati leemele tummisuse andmiseks juurde kartuliliibud ja l\u00f5puks piim.<\/p>\n

Kodaveres tehti kalamarjasupp veega, millesse pandi lisaks kalamarjale pisut liha, kartuleid ja klimpe.<\/p>\n

V\u00f5nnus valmistati haugimarjasupp nii, et kalakeeduleemele lisati juurde haugimari ja maitseained ning keedeti pehmeks. Ikka kinnitati, et haugi mari tuleb enne vette panekut nuiaga puruks teha.<\/p>\n

Toores kalamari<\/h2>\n

L\u00f5petuseks t\u00f5en\u00e4oliselt k\u00f5ike tuntum kalamarjatoit\u00a0\u2013 toorest kalamarjast valmistatud \u201cigra\u201d v\u00f5i \u201cikra\u201d, nagu seda Peipsimaal venep\u00e4raselt nimetati. Toorelt tarvitati haugi, r\u00e4\u00e4bise, aga ka lutsu ja ihese marja, k\u00f5ige rohkem esimest. Mari puhastati ja pesti, segati ja h\u00f5\u00f5ruti soolaga, lisati peeneks hakitud sibulat ja pipart. Iisakus on mainitud ka kalamarja loorberiga maitsestamist. Ikra oli k\u00f5rges hinnas \u201cviinameeste\u201d hulgas, kuna sobis v\u00e4ga h\u00e4sti sakuskaks, aga see oli ka niisama v\u00e4ga hea leivak\u00f5rvane. Eriti rammusa suut\u00e4ie sai, kui ikra k\u00fcpse pekilihaga kokku pandi, nagu seda Tormas tehtud.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

Soolatud haugimari musta pipraga. Foto Anu J\u00e4rs<\/strong>
Toorest haugimarja valmistades peab t\u00e4helepanelik olema, et mitte parasiite saada, aga hoolika t\u00f6\u00f6 tulemus on seda v\u00e4\u00e4rt. V\u00e4rskest haugimarjast tehtud ikra maitseb imehea.<\/p><\/div>\n

Peipsimaa maitsete aasta on l\u00e4bi saamas. Mai algul annab Peipsimaa teatepulga \u00fcle uuele toidupiirkonnale, milleks on P\u00e4rnumaa. Aga enne seda toimub sel p\u00fchap\u00e4eval, 29. aprillil M\u00e4etagusel Peipsi toidu suur pidu<\/a>, kus saab tutvuda, milliseid maitseid pakub t\u00e4nane Peipsimaa. J\u00e4rgneva aasta jooksul on t\u00e4helepanu keskmes juba P\u00e4rnumaa.<\/p>\n

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Anu J\u00e4rs, teadur-kuraator 15. aprillil algas Peipsil haugip\u00fc\u00fcgi keeluaeg. 15. maini haugi p\u00fc\u00fcda ei tohi, et kala saaks rahulikult paljuneda ning j\u00e4rve kalavarud p\u00fcsiksid. Vanasti oli just kalade kudemisaeg oluliseks p\u00fc\u00fcgihooajaks. Kudemisaegses saagis oli ohtralt kalamarja, millest Peipsimaa rahvas mitmekesiseid roogi valmistas. T\u00e4nane lugu heidab pilgu neile toitudele. Peipsimaal tarvitati s\u00f6\u00f6giks k\u00f5igi kalade marja, \u00fchegi…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":11320,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[10],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-11318","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-teadus"],"yoast_head":"\nIkrast k\u00e4kini - Eesti Rahva Muuseumi ajaveeb<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/blog.erm.ee\/?p=11318\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"et_EE\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Ikrast k\u00e4kini - Eesti Rahva Muuseumi ajaveeb\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Anu J\u00e4rs, teadur-kuraator 15. aprillil algas Peipsil haugip\u00fc\u00fcgi keeluaeg. 15. maini haugi p\u00fc\u00fcda ei tohi, et kala saaks rahulikult paljuneda ning j\u00e4rve kalavarud p\u00fcsiksid. Vanasti oli just kalade kudemisaeg oluliseks p\u00fc\u00fcgihooajaks. Kudemisaegses saagis oli ohtralt kalamarja, millest Peipsimaa rahvas mitmekesiseid roogi valmistas. T\u00e4nane lugu heidab pilgu neile toitudele. 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